I wouldn’t use wood to build a cage - it could be chewed through. Melamine is fine and there are a number of IKEA hacks out there. Which can also look very smart and are wipe clean.
My dwarf hamster Feta’s enclosure. It’s the ikea pax. The inner measurements are 232,5cm x 96cm x 56cm. 3452 square inches. : hamsterlove
I think the largest are the Pax ones - the Germans are big fans of pax cages and they can be varying sizes depending which pax wardrobe shell you get. Linked below (the larger one is not cheap).
Having said all that. As Ria says, the Barney is an excellent sized cage - one of the largest barred cages there is as it’s 54cm deep so gives more floorspace than most 100cm cages - and most hamsters would be very happy in there. I actually prefer barred cages for ventilation and closer interaction with the hamster through the bars and cages. I’ve had the Barney cage - the small front doors can be a boon or not so good, depending on the nature of the hamster. A confident or gregarious hamster will happily come to one of the front doors to come out. A shy hamster may need tempting out in a tube (you’d need to use the top door for that to lower it in).
As he’s only 10 weeks old and they need at least two weeks to acclimatise to a cage, scent mark it and decide where to nest and make it their own environment, I wouldn’t rush to upgrade him and perhaps focus more on hand taming for now - that can take a couple of months to fully hand take them and then build trust in you. Unless you’re lucky enough that he’s already fully hand tame
They are quite sensitive little things and can be affected by stress. A cage change is a big stress so timing needs to be right and it needs to be done carefully. I made the mistake of moving our first hamster cold Turkey to a new cage and he was so affected I literally thought he was going to die . He came round - it took 10 days for that. A cage change can also set taming back so best they are well familiar with you first.
There are some very good things you can do for enrichment with barred cages as well for variety- if you look at the let’s see your cages thread you can see what others have done - attaching things to bars and roof (I use the roof in my set ups to make a roof run) with rat tubes and hanging rat Sputniks/hammocks. Doesn’t look very glamorous but the hamsters love it
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However - for some hamsters no cage is big enough! And they can benefit from something bigger - and then you are looking at diy or tank style cages.
I would let him settle in the current cage for at least a few more weeks though - he’s still a baby and they can get scared easily.
If and when you do a cage change it’s important to move everything across without cleaning anything - and avoid our human temptation to have everything nice and clean and brand spanking new
. Including all the old substrate. Doesn’t matter if it’s slightly whiffy for a couple of weeks (and they need the two week settling in period again and to be left alone for the first two or three days at least).
With a larger cage you’d need a lot more substrate so you fill the new cage with substrate then spread the old substrate on top. Any new items in the cage are fine but try to keep two or three old items from the old cage and out those in the same layout as before. Eg house right hand side, wheel back left etc - and any floor toys in similar locations. And don’t clean those before moving them either. This can really help then settle in and feel familiar and reduce the stress. As some things still smell of them and smell and feel familiar. Also move the old nest across into the house (even if it’s a new house) and some of the old hoard as well - in the same place as before. Their nest and hoard are their most precious things and they can get very upset about those disappearing or being messed with! Our hamsters use a litter tray so I never remove the nest and they keep it clean and dry. If it’s peed in (baby hamsters do that sometimes) you have to remove some of it but try and leave some of the old nest behind and put new toilet paper strips out in a pile and they rebuild it from that. Same with the hoard - if it’s peed on then you need to remove some of it but try and leave a bit of old dry hoard where it is - then add a handful of new food to that - they seem to accept that! Otherwise they can get in a cycle of peeing on their hoard to deter invaders from stealing it!
Ok some pax links
With these you turn it on its back and replace the door with a meshed lid you’d need to make from wood strips and mesh (1cm squared mesh).
PAX / FARDAL Wardrobe with 1 door, white/high-gloss/white, 50x60x201 cm - IKEA
PAX / BERGSBO Wardrobe, white, 100x60x201 cm - IKEA