Bunsey
04-12-2008, 02:39 PM
interesting, i agree. i hope that makes the journal. everything i've ever submitted has been published, so it should do.
i have all mine saved, if Matty doesn't mind me sharing the thread! Anyone who just joined a club won't have seen mine.
First one - wrote this a long time ago and i may not give identical advice now.
How to Care for Roborovski Hamsters
General Facts
Roborovski hamsters are dwarf hamsters. Unlike Syrian hamsters (the large hamsters), they like to live in pairs or groups. However, it is not usually possible to put hamsters together that are not related.
Roborovskis are the fastest of all hamsters. They do not like to be held for long periods of time and will jump onto the floor. Once loose, they are difficult to catch because of their speed. However, their speed and playfulness make them one of the most interesting types of hamster to watch.
Roborovskis are technically nocturnal, meaning that they are most active at night. However, unlike other types of hamster, they will often get up for short periods during the day and will immediately awaken if disturbed.
It is very rare for a Roborovski hamster to bite. It is possible to put your hand inside the cage without being bitten. This is not true for other types of dwarf hamsters, who can be defensive about their cages.
How to tame a new Roborovski hamster
Roborovskis are the least naturally tame of all hamsters and some will never like being held. As they are so fast and jumpy, it’s best to attempt taming whilst holding your hands either inside the cage, a tub, playpen or bath, with steep sides.
Begin by putting your hands inside the cage or play area that you have the hamsters in. It’s best if this isn’t a large area, or the hamsters may well just avoid the hands. Try to keep still and the hamsters may come up to your hands, sniff you or walk on the hands. Also try putting food in your hand.
Chances are that the will not come to your hand as easily as stated above. Attempt to pick one of the hamsters up by using two hands and cupping them around it. Don’t chase it if it runs away. Again, it’s best if there’s only a small area for them to run in. Carefully grab the hamster with both hands and hold it close to the ground in closed hands for a few seconds. This just allows it to calm down some. Now try opening your hands slowly. Be ready to quickly move one hand in front of the other, in an alternate motion, as the hamster starts to walk. Let him walk from one hand to the other. It depends on the individual hamster as to how fast he will walk/run. Some hamsters will just leap off your hands and not do the walking. Let him go. Once the hamster has walked on your hands for a while, it may sit still. Keep your hand still and let it sit. Gently stroke it. It may run away at this, but not to worry, it will get used to it. Lower your hands to the floor of the cage or playpen to allow the hamster to step off. This lets it know that you mean it no harm, and are willing to let it go free.
Keep doing this sort of thing every day. You can do this for about 15 mins at a time, then give them a break for a while. Have as many sessions in a day as you like.
How long does it take to tame them?
Some hamsters will take only a few days to trust you, others a few weeks, others months, others perhaps never. It is really individual and Roborovskis are the hardest type of hamsters to tame.
How the Hamsters Interact with Each Other
Roborovski hamsters love to play together, sleep together and do everything together!
You will find that they curl up together to sleep, often sitting in funny looking positions on top of one another! During playtime, they will most likely run in their wheel together, which is very comical and cute!
Sometimes, it may become necessary to have 2 wheels in the cage if the hamsters become too large to run side by side, and start to fight over it.
You will notice that sometimes the hamsters will squabble. This is normal and do not worry too much about it. They are either play fighting, which is silent, or squabbling over who wants to be the dominant one of the pair, in which squeaking can be heard. They may also mount one another, again for dominance.
Sometimes, and usually with unrelated hamsters, the fighting may become serious. Look out for anything vicious and any cuts or scabs on the hamsters. If these are found, then unfortunately they must be separated into different cages and can no longer live together.
How large will the hamsters get?
A 5-week-old roborovski is about ½ of its adult size. Males will grow slightly larger than females, and will have a slightly different shaped rear end. This is clear by 2-3 months.
They will be fully-grown at around 3-4 months of age.
What Kind of Cage do Roborovskis like?
Generally, they like lots of room to run and play. The cage can never be too large. Usually, cages with steep, smooth tubes are not suitable, as the hamsters are too small to climb the tube and, unlike other hamsters, do not have suckers on their feet. A cage where the tubes have ridges inside and the tubes aren’t vertical should be fine. Roborovskis love tubes!
Some kinds of cages with bars are not suitable while the hamsters are young, as they can squeeze through the bars.
Some recommended cages are shown below
Gabber criceto rex
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The Savic Rody. £26.99 from Pets at Home
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The Ferplast Duna. Around £25 from pet shops or garden centres. Specifically, Stapeley Water Gardens in Cheshire.
A cage with a double level is good, but try to ensure that the hamsters cannot fall. Perhaps place a toy to use as a step.
If the cage has a wire floor, this can hurt the hamsters’ feet. You can avoid this by weaving cardboard through the floor, or selecting a different cage.
Cage Accessories
You MUST get a wheel for the hamsters. It must be a solid plastic one, as shown in the pictures above, without any gaps in the running area, as this can cause loss of limbs.
You MUST also get a water bottle, not a bowl. Hamsters cannot usually use the “Ferplast” style water bottles. These come with ferplast cages, and whilst the cages are great, the water bottle must usually be replaced.
A “house” should be used for the hamsters to nest in. This will usually be wooden, ceramic or plastic. The plastic kind should have plenty of ventilation, as condensation may develop and cause breathing problems. If you are worried, drill some holes in the top of the house, or buy a new one.
Roborovskis love to play with toys that they can climb on, over, under or in and out of.
Things like this can be found in pet shops or online. Wooden toys are great, as they allow the hamsters to chew, to prevent overgrown teeth. They also help to keep nails from becoming too long.
Roborovskis, and all dwarf hamsters, benefit from having a “sand bath” in their cage. This consists of a dish filled with chinchilla/gerbil sand. I suggest Charlie Chinchilla sand, available from pet shops or some garden centres.
Note that chinchilla DUST must not be used, as this is too fine and can cause breathing difficulties.
The hamsters will roll around on their backs in their sand bath. Aside from being very cute to watch, the purpose of this is to keep their fur soft and smooth.
Food
The recommended food for any hamster is Harry Hamster, found in a green bag. This can be bought from Wilko (UK). This offers the best nutritional content. Other acceptable food is Supreme Hamster, which can be bought from small pet shops or garden centres. Neither of the above food is sold at Pets at Home, however their hamster museli is quite a good food.
Treats – The favourite treat for roborovski hamsters is a vitakraft chewy stick in either fruit or nut variety. These are pictured below. The hamsters will climb up the stick if it is hung up
Other treats are vegetables and fruits. These should be given only in small portions. Suitable vegetables are broccoli, cabbage, carrot, spinach for example.
Do not feed – Anything that is chocolate or yogurt based, even though these are sold in shops as suitable for hamsters. They are not suitable, as they will melt and stick inside the hamsters’ mouthes and pouches. They are dangerous for all types of hamster.
Bedding and Nesting Material
Sawdust
Manufacturers of sawdust and wood-shaving products will insist that they are fine, however research suggests that they may be dangerous to hamsters, causing problems such as breathing difficulties or lung disorders that may go unnoticed. Other research suggests that chemicals called Phenols are released when the sawdust or wood shavings come into contact with the hamsters’ urine. These chemicals are harmful to hamsters. A couple of sites with more info about this are:
http://www.napak.com/dwarf_hamster.html
http://www.inchem.org/documents/cicads/ ... icad66.htm (http://www.inchem.org/documents/cicads/cicads/cicad66.htm)
http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resource ... ets/85.htm (http://www.petpeoplesplace.com/resources/advice/small_pets/85.htm)
Also see the general recommended web sites listed at the end of guide, for more info.
Alternatives to sawdust
There are 2 main alternatives to wood-based bedding. These are Carefresh and Megazorb. Hamsters love both of these. Firstly, Carefresh, is more expensive that sawdust, but it has no smell and will absorb more urine. The hamsters will only need to be cleaned once a week, where sawdust will smell after about 3 or 4 days. It is worth the extra money for the hamsters’ health, too! A 10 litre bag costs £2.99 from Pets at Home.
Megazorb is only available online and only comes in 15kg bags, which are very large and will last about 6 months to a year if you only have one hamster cage to clean out! This is a nicer colour than carefresh and not as clumpy.
You can order this from http://www.bunnymail.co.uk/ or www.ukpetsupplies.com (http://www.ukpetsupplies.com)
Other nesting material
You will also need some nesting material to use in the hamsters’ bedroom area. Again, I will begin with what not to use. Wool, fluff and cotton-wool style bedding should not be used as this can cause choking if swallowed and may also tangle in the hamster’s legs.
What to buy
Anything that is paper based is fine. Wilkos stock some great cheap white paper nesting material and some blue paper-based strands.
Where to get the best information about hamsters
http://www.hamsters-uk.org/
www.hamsterific.com (http://www.hamsterific.com)
http://www.hamster-heaven.com
www.hamstercentral.com (http://www.hamstercentral.com)
www.thepetwebsite.co.uk (http://www.thepetwebsite.co.uk)
http://www.freewebs.com/rabbitsnrodentscareinformation/
FAQs
What should I do if I buy hamsters from a pet shop and they are a mixed sex pair?
I’ve known this to happen to many people who buy dwarf hamsters (including myself). If your hamsters have babies, the first thing to do is NOT touch the babies or nest. If you do, the mother may abandon or kill her babies out of fear. The second thing to do is refer to one of the recommended web sites or the recommended book.
Can I make money from breeding hamsters?
You will not so much as break even. Breeding should only be done with MUCH research and from hamsters whose genetic history is known, going back about 5 generations. Ask yourself why you want to breed. If it is for money or fun, then it is for the wrong reasons.
What books are good?
I recommend buying Hamsterlopaedia priced at around £7. The author of this book is an expert hamster breeder and member of the national hamster council.
What is a “Husky” roborovski?
This is a genetic mutation that has occurred in the roborovski gene pool, which causes the hamster to have a white face.
How can people help prevent dangerous items from being sold?
By not buying them, and telling others not to buy them.
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Baby hamsters, with their mother. Carefresh bedding, Charlie chinchilla sand, a silent spinner wheel and various toys. Cage is by Gabber
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“A Tribute to a Special Friend
Honey passed away at 4:55pm on 9th February 2007. This is the story of our happy times together.
I first met Honey on the 1st December 2005. I went in to Pets at Home to browse for toys for my 2 Roborovski hamsters. I didn’t find any of the other Syrians attractive, just my Honey. She was fully-grown and much larger than the others were. I spoke to her and she sat at the front, lapping up every word. I said goodbye to the hamster I had dubbed “Pretty” and went home, but I could not stop thinking about her. I really wanted to bring her home.
On 5th December 2005, I went back into Pets at Home hoping that Pretty would still be there. At first I thought she had gone, but then I spotted her in one of the lower tanks. Other customers were ignoring her because she wasn’t a tiny baby. I squatted down to speak to her and she came to listen to me once more, happy to receive attention. An assistant opened the tank for me and I stroked Pretty as she ate. She was put into a box, but before we had paid for her, Pretty chewed her way out of the box and into her new cage!
On the way home, we chose the new name of Honey. The first thing Honey did in her new cage was run in the wheel. She had a jumbo Rolly wheel and loved it! Honey was obese, probably due to the lack of exercise in the pet shop tank. She was fascinated with trying to squash up the side of the wheel and underneath it! She got stuck and I had to rescue her!
The next night, I brought her cage downstairs. We noticed that her water bottle had leaked and I needed to change the wet bedding, so I put her ball into the cage and Honey stepped into it. She ran around the room whilst I changed her bedding. On the 3rd night with us, when I put Honey on my lap, she sat there still and contented, loving the company and attention.
After being with us for about 3 months, we noticed that she was rarely leaving her hut. I thought she must be ill. One night, she looked particularly offside and I decided to take her to the vet the next morning. However, she looked so poorly that I feared she wouldn’t make it. I suspected Wet Tail and looked up everything I could find online, to get her through the night. I tried my best to get her to drink, but she refused. Other things I offered her, including dry wholemeal toast and bio-yoghurt were also refused and she slumped in the corner ignoring me, which was not at all like Honey. I was devastated at the thought of loosing her and realised just how much I really loved her.
At about 5am, Honey suddenly started to take the water, toast and yoghurt, which I was constantly offering. By 8am, she had perked up tremendously and was back to her old self! She had made a complete turn around, and for the first time in a week, she ran in her wheel, climbed on the roof of her cage and even came out in her ball, racing around the room! She had made a full recovery and I was overjoyed! From that day on, there was a very strong and special bond between Honey and I.
Honey adored playing with me. If I offered my palm to her, in the cage, she would walk onto it to be lifted out. If she was especially keen to come out, she would even ignore the offer of treats, choosing instead to step over them and onto my hand, to come out! If she got tired, she often liked to take naps on my knee, especially inside my dressing gown or up my sleeve! Honey regularly took 40 minute long naps with me, as she felt the safest there.
When she was in her ball, her favourite thing to do was to follow me around. She was always close to my feet and would walk up and down the room, following me closely. She always looked so very happy when we played together. She would wait for me at any barrier that I stepped over, or at the bottom of the stairs. She was always pleased to see me and to hear my voice. Even if she was in her nest, she’d make a special sniffing sound in response to my voice. Sometimes she'd even poke her head out to say hi. She also loved to be carried around in my cupped hands, getting a unique view of the world. She always looked so delighted by this. She was proud to be with her mummy.
In April 2006, I left Honey for the first time, to go on holiday. I wrapped my dressing gown around her cage, so that she could smell me. She ate and drank whilst we were away, but she did pine and loose weight. She was soon fine again upon my return. The next time we went away, I was extremely worried, but Honey was fine, having learnt that her mummy always returns!
It was just before this 2nd trip, on 12th august 2006, that Honey’s hair loss was first spotted. This was the beginning of Cushings Disease. Her hair loss was slow at first and she even grew patches of new hair. However, around November, she started to rapidly loose all her hair and was virtually bald by January 2007. After this, she developed wounds and dry skin. For about a month, her special tea tree cream helped these, but in February 2007, she developed an infected sore and her movements were impaired. On 8th February, she could no longer straighten her back and we made the kind decision to end her suffering. Honey went to sleep peacefully the next day. Her funeral was on 10th February 2007.
Everyone who met her, adored my Honey. She will always be remembered, and retain a place in my heart as a dear friend and wonderfully unique hamster. I love you and miss you, my sweet angel. Your short life brought me more happiness than you ever knew.”
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Cushings Disease in Syrian Hamsters
What is Cushings Disease?
Cushings Disease is caused by a tumour in the Pituitary gland in the brain. This causes irregular hormone production, which leads to some, or all, of the following symptoms appearing in the hamster:
Hair loss
Weight loss
Loose skin and dry, flaky skin
Wasting of the skeletal muscles, resulting in impaired movement
Increased thirst and production of urine
Dark pigment patches on the skin (not to be confused with the normal scent patches found on the hips)
Cuts, scabs or wounds on the skin, which may become infected
Which Hamsters are Vulnerable to Cushings Disease?
There are no preventative measures to ensure that your hamster does not develop Cushings. There are no environmental factors that can increase or decrease your hamster’s chances of getting Cushings Disease. It cannot be caught or passed on from one hamster to another.
There is no scientific evidence to suggest that certain colours of hamster are more likely to develop Cushings Disease, but in my experience, the majority of hamsters diagnosed with Cushings have been black or sable (either banded or not). I have also known of the occasional Golden with Cushings Disease. I have never heard of Cushings appearing in cream lines, for example. As I stated, this is only from my own limited observations and is in no way scientific proof or empirically tested evidence.
The best way to decrease your chance of purchasing a hamster that will later develop Cushings Disease is to purchase from a well-known, reputable breeder, such as those who regularly display at National Hamster Council shows (UK only). Such breeders keep genetic records of all their hamsters and can tell you if they’ve ever had a hamster that’s developed Cushings Disease (the likely response will be never). Responsible breeders would discontinue a genetic line where illnesses, such as Cushings, appear. You cannot rely on pet shops to practice such behaviour, as they keep no genetic records and do not stay in contact with buyers to find out if any problems develop with their hamsters. The hamster that will feature as a model in this article is from a well-known pet shop chain.
Cushings Disease Timeline – What course does Cushings usually take?
This timeline explains how the symptoms first appear and how they develop over time. You can use this guide to spot Cushings Disease developing in your hamsters and as a guide for what to expect.
It is unusual for these symptoms to develop in a hamster under one year old. The average age for a hamster to develop Cushings Disease appears to be between 14 and 18 months.
Cushings Disease always presents initially with hair loss. This is the first sign that your hamster may have Cushings. However, it is also very common for hamsters of this age to have hair loss that is unrelated to illness. It is also possible for hamsters to loose hair due to an infestation of mites, for which veterinary treatment must be sought. Therefore, it is difficult to diagnose early-stage Cushings Disease in hamsters. A diagnosis of Cushings Disease is usually given if the hair loss worsens in spite of treatment for mites and results of skin-scrape tests being negative for mites.
There is currently no veterinary treatment for Cushings Disease in hamsters, unlike in cats and dogs, for whom medication can manage the illness. This treatment cannot be given to hamsters, as it is far too strong for them. It could be possible to prescribe a much lower dosage of these drugs for hamsters, but most vets will not offer this treatment, as it is not licensed.
The hair loss in Cushings Disease usually begins in one or more of the following places:
The underside of the hamster, near the genitals.
Around the scent glands on the hips
Just above the tail
In a couple of months the hair loss progresses quite rapidly, so that almost all hair on the rear end and belly is lost, leaving a few tufts here and there.
You may now notice dark pigment spots appearing on the skin and some new hair may even start to grow. This often provides false hope that the hamster is recovering. As the next couple of months pass, much more hair will be lost. The hair loss will progress further towards the head on both the back and the belly. Luckily, the head tends to be the last place that hair loss begins.
At this stage, you will likely notice your hamster drinking more and the cage beginning to smell before it is due to be cleaned. This is due to extra urine production. The cage will now need to be cleaned about every 5 days.
By this point, you’ll also notice your hamster loosing weight and looking smaller and thinner. Provide extra nesting material for warmth. You may also notice cuts appearing on the skin. Remove sharp toys, such as wooden objects, as the exposed skin is delicate and vulnerable. The hamster will develop wounds and scabs caused by the disease, so as long as the toys aren’t sharp of rough, do not feel guilty about wounds and scabs developing. You will also notice that the skin is becoming wrinkled and also dry.
Picture taken 4.5 months after start of Cushings Disease
It will be helpful to your hamster if you purchase some special cream, marketed for dry skin in animals. In the UK, this can be purchased from Pets at Home. You may also be able to buy a similar product from your vet. This cream, applied once or twice a day, will really comfort the itching that your hamster will experience. Apply the cream liberally to the skin. You will most likely need the help of another person to hold the hamster whilst you apply the cream.
At this time, you will also start to notice the hamster sleeping much more and wanting less play time. However, when the hamster is awake, they will be as enthusiastic as ever to come out and play. At this point, the hamster does not seem to be in any particular discomfort or pain, aside from itching, which is helped by the cream.
It is very important to the emotional well being of your hamster that you hold them and play with them as normal, or someone else does so, even if the hair loss and changed appearance of your hamster puts you off. The hamster will not understand if you don’t hold them as much as usual and will get depressed at lack of human contact. Your hamster needs to feel that you still love them just as much as before the illness. Stroke the tufts of hair that still remain on you hamster. They will not usually become 100% bald.
How will it end? - How will the hamster die?
The majority of hamsters with Cushings Disease have to be taken to the vet to be put to sleep to end their suffering. Not many pass away naturally before suffering begins. I hope the information in this section will help you to decide on the right time to euthanise your special little friend. In my opinion, there are two main symptoms to look out for that tell you the time has come:
1) infected wounds
The model hamster used here developed two large wounds on the belly that became infected. They were yellow-grey in colour and smelled strongly.
2) Impaired movement
As the disease progresses, you will notice your hamster’s movements becoming increasingly impaired. At first, this will simply be slowness in movement and will not be troubling the hamster too much; they may just appear a little stiff. At this point, the hamster may need to be transferred to a large one-level cage or tub, if they are not in such a cage already, as they will not be able to climb up to different levels or climb tubes. It is very important to keep an eye on your hamster’s movement. If the hamster becomes too impaired, for example having difficulty in walking or straightening their back, then it is kinder to euthanise immediately. Ensure that your hamster can reach the water bottle right up until their final day.
Only you can make the final decision about when to euthanise, as you know your hamster the best. It is important not to go on holiday during your hamster’s final weeks, in case they suddenly worsen and need euthanasia. The model hamster worsened in one day and was euthanised immediately.
What Happens at the Vet? How will my hamster be put to sleep?
When you make the appointment, inform the vet that it is for euthanasia. They will prepare a form for you to sign, giving your permission. You can either have your hamster cremated at the vets or take the body home to bury in the garden. These options will be on the form.
The vet will be very gentle and sympathetic. They will not mind if you cry and will often give you a few minutes alone with your hamster, to say goodbye. Most people wish to stay with their hamster as the lethal injection is administered. However, it is difficult to find veins in hamsters and the vet may suggest that your hamster is gently put unconscious with gas, before the injection is administered. This means that the hamster does not feel the needle or suffer any pain caused by a vein not being able to be located. Your hamster will be taken to a glass chamber where they will feel no pain and gently fall to sleep. Then the lethal injection will be administered to stop your hamster’s heart, while they are sleeping.
The whole process takes about five minutes and your hamster feels no pain. Your hamster will then be returned to you, in a peaceful, sleeping position, wrapped in a tissue or blanket.
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Animal Communication
I recently received a wonderful birthday gift of a session with an animal communicator. This is probably something that a lot of people are sceptical about or are perhaps unsure of how it works, so I decided to share some details of my experience.
An animal communicator is not a psychic and does not use mind-reading techniques. They are simply a person who is able to tune in to the frequency that animals use to communicate. Animals speak to the communicator via telepathy. The communicator cannot read their thoughts and only hears what the animal wishes to communicate.
Before the reading I was asked to send 2 photos of my hamster – one of the hamster looking forward and one looking showing the eye on the side of the hamster’s face. The photos need to be large, with the eyes looking into the camera with no blurs or reflections. I also sent some questions and a message for my hamster.
Before the reading, I was unsure how it would work. I imagined that my hamster could only use very simple language or just communicate in pictures and feelings. I was therefore worried that my questions were too complicated. I needn’t have worried, as my hamster spoke very eloquently!
When the communicator has suitable photos, you will agree I time when they can phone you to pass on details of the communication. There were 3 parts to the communication – firstly, my hamster was given the floor to say anything that she wished to express. Then, the communicator asked her my questions and gave her my messages, and finally, my hamster passed on messages and advice for me.
I truly believe that my hamster spoke to the communicator and I hope that you will agree that the things mentioned by my hamster could not have been made up by a fraudster!
My hamster told me that she loved to fall asleep on my chest. This is something that no other hamster has ever done with me. She described her Gabber Rex cage and said that she loved how there was so much to do in there. The communicator described my hamster as a domestic goddess, which is certainly true as I have never seen another hamster be so particular over the neatness of their cage! Astonishingly, the communicator told me which TV programmes my hamster enjoyed! These we all programmes that we watch regularly, such as house renovation projects and specifically, the show “How Clean is Your House”! There is no way the communicator could have known about our passion for watching such shows!
What really surprised me was that the communicator said that my hamster referred to me as her daughter! As far as my hamster is concerned, she is the one who takes care of me, not the other way around! I now feel a bit strange when I call my hamsters my babies or refer to myself as their Mummy!
One of the questions I asked my hamster was what had happened to her before we met. Everything she told me was as I had suspected – she had had babies and then been given up along with the babies. Interestingly, she thinks that hamster young should be called kittens! My hamster said “I had some kittens and they didn’t want me anymore. But it’s ok dear, I’m a survivor.”
I asked my hamster which were her favourite photos and she described ones that she liked and why, and also described 2 photos that she did not like! I also asked the question “what do you think of your hut?” which is something that I have not noticed her using. She replied “Dear, it’s very sweet of you, but it’s no use to me. But if you like it that’s fine by me”. I did not give the communicator any details other than the questions, which I purposefully made vague.
My hamster’s message for me was as follows:
“Just tell her I love her. To keep busy. Don’t let the knocks stop you, keep going, like me. We’re stronger than we appear and we’re important too. What we do counts – so keep going dear. Don’t give up so easily – keep going and you’ll make me very proud.”
Overall, I got the impression that my hamster is a very wise soul who looks out for me. If anyone were considering having a session with an animal communicator, I would strongly recommend it.
that's all.
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